中国乡村,大多是未经雕琢的水墨画卷,让生于此长于此的人,“望得见山、看得见水、记得住乡愁”。
烟雨西递
Most of the Chinese villages are like natural ink painting scrolls, enabling people born there to see mountains, waters and to remember their homeland.
二月末,行至黟县的路上,一直是大雨。这种雨,在冬末的安徽北部并不常见,这里提前进入了雨季。冬末已经连续一个多月的阴雨季,是这里北亚热带湿润季风气候的特征。
春雨润卢村
黟县有12条河流,漳水、虞山溪、甲溪、清溪、旋溪、漳溪、茶溪……
向南流1公里,东纳通甸河
又南流4公里,东纳克卓河
又南流3公里,西纳木瓜邑河……”
依山傍水。黟县西递,古有驿站递所,后来因村边有三条溪水自东向西流而得名。
有的与河流同名,如考川、同川、美溪、枧溪。
这 里 雨 水 丰 沛, 年 平 均 气 温15.8℃,降水量1686毫米。
At the end of February, it was raining heavily all my way to Yixian County. This kind of rain is rare to see in the northern Anhui at the end of winter and it means the country has entered the rainy season ahead of the time. The end of winter has been a continuous rainy period for more than one month, showing the characteristics of the humid monsoon climate in the north subtropical zone.
This is the southern Anhui near the mysterious line of 30 degrees north latitude, to the south of the ridge lies the Yixian Basin and to the north the hilly land.
There are 12 rivers in Yixian County, including Zhangshui, Yushanxi, Jiaxi, Qingxi, Xuanxi, Zhangxi and Chaxi.
“The Lancang River flows southward from Weixi County to Beidian Township of Lanping County
One more kilometer southward, it takes in on the east bank the water from the Tungdian River
Six more kilometers southward, it takes in on the west bank the water from the Deqing River
Four more kilometers southward, it takes in on the east bank the water from the Kezhuo River
Three more kilometers southward, it takes in on the east bank the water from the Zhongpai River
Three more kilometers southward, it takes in on the west bank the water from the Muguayi River...”
Like the description of the Lancang River by Lei Pingyang, the 12 rivers in Yixian County also have their own specific names and different routes. People who record those also incorporate their nostalgia into the geography of the river system.
Situated at the foot of a hill and beside a stream, Yixian’s Xidi(posts going westward) is named after the ancient post office and the three streams flowing westward by the village.
The national Tachuan (stream pagoda) Forest Park has dozens of ancient Hui-style dwellings on the mountain slope, making itself like a huge pagoda, through which a stream flows, so came the name.
Some places share the same name with rivers, like Kaochuan, Tongchuan, Meixi, and Fengxi.
Some are named according to the direction of water flow, such as Shangzhai(upper hamlet, Zhongzhai (mid hamlet) and Xiazhai(lower hamlet) of Hongxing Village, and Yuantou (fountainhead) Village and Banyuan (semi-fountainhead) Village.
This county has abundant rainfall, with the annual precipitation of 1,686 millimeters, and the average annual temperature is 15.8 degrees Celsius.
The rain has washed the rural roads clean, disclosing the paths of forefathers.
章二
名字是我们的宝藏。黟县作为千年古县,名字已经延用2193年了。
黟县是徽州“一府六县”最早的建置县,秦二十六年置。第二次地名普查省级以上地名文化遗产44项。
西递晨曲
这里是“古徽商”和“徽文化”的发祥地之一,“梦里徽州,诗画黟县”是它的名片。
晒笋干
建安十三年(公元208年),改“黝”为“黟”,属新都郡,后属新安郡。
“地名,是我们回家的路”。
满目春绿
The name of the county is dear to us. As a double-millennium county, Yixian has used its name for 2,193 years.
Yixian County, the earliest administrative county of Huizhou Prefecture that had six counties under its jurisdiction, was chartered in the 26th year of the Qin Dynasty. In the second census of geographical names, 44 places have been included in the provincial and above lists of the historic-cultural heritage of geographical names.
In the county are two world heritage sites, three key sites of historical and cultural relics under the state protection, eight sites of historical and cultural relics under provincial protection. In addition, there are six national famous historical and cultural villages, 44 traditional Chinese villages, one provincial famous historical and cultural city seat and 11 provincial intangible cultural heritage items.
Here is one of the birthplaces of the ancient Huizhou Merchants and Huizhou Culture. The “poetic and picturesque Yixian in the dreamy land of Huizhou” is the best description of the county.
Because the peaks and rocks here are dark green and black, and the emperor of the Qin Dynasty was fond of black color, the county was named “You” when it was established, according to the Xin’an Annals.
In 208, the name of the county was changed from You to Yi (another synonym for black), belonging to Xindu Prefecture and later to Xin'an Prefecture.
In 770, the administration coverage of Xizhou Prefecture was reduced from eight counties to six counties. Since then, the governance system of “one prefecture composed of six counties” has remained for over 1,000 years, passing through the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties.
Since 1987, it has belonged to Huangshan City up to now.
The Chinese word of Yixian embodies the distinctive landscape and cultural features of the county. All the mountains, rivers, villages and streets here also have beautiful names.
The name of the place is the index to our homes.
章三
环黟皆山,在黟县,用“山、岭、尖”通名出现频次最高。如省级自然保护区五溪山,因5条溪水同时发源于此而得名。主峰三府尖,可遥望徽州、池州、宣州3府而得名。南屏,因村庄南面有尤如屏障的山峰而得名。关麓,因坐落于西武雄关东麓而得名。“东有东头岭,南有楠木岭,西有西武岭,北有羊栈岭”……
古村舞龙表演
另有因宗族姓氏而命名。世界文化遗产宏村,最早名叫韩村。后来汪氏迁居韩村并逐渐兴旺,而韩氏却日渐衰微,然而汪氏并未因此将韩村改为汪村,而是改为黟县方言中与韩村同音的宏村,体现了古人的宽宏心态。
千年古县,不仅仅名字延用千年,居这一方水土的价值观,一样延续千年。
西递雪韵
以文化价值认同而定名。全国历史文化名村卢村至今留存古街3条,古巷24条。志诚巷、思济巷、崇德巷、慎德巷、贤德巷、俊德巷、庆德巷等,体现了“诚、德、济、义”的卢氏家族文化。这些美丽的街巷名,和它们附着的历史故事与蕴含的文化价值认同,已成为卢村文化的一部分。
卢氏本为姜氏,因战乱采食于芦,为使后裔牢记艰辛,改作卢姓。一千多年40余代卢氏后人在此繁衍生息,涌现出卢臣忠、卢璘、卢储等名人贤者。
志诚堂、思成堂、思济堂等“七家里”木雕楼,是国家级非物质文化遗产“徽州三雕”的典范。每年正月十五有“龙灯会”习俗,雉山凤舞为省级非物质文化遗产。
迎新年
五里卢村三里烟,这里有中国乡村24节气之美,这里甚至可以说是最美丽的中国乡村范本,满足我对乡村最完美的想象,有炊烟、小桥、溪水、冬雪、除夕夜里的烟花和山谷里的回音…
古村之喜
Since Yixian County is in the mountainous area, “Shan(mountain), Ling (ridge), and Jian (peak)” often appear in the names of places. For example, Mt. Wuxi, featuring five streams, is a provincial nature reserve. The main peak of the place is called Sanfu Jian where on top of it people can overlook the land of three prefectures. Nanping is named after the screen-like mountain to the south and Guanlu is named because it is located on the east side of the Xiwu Ridge. “There are Dongtouling in the east, Nanmuling in the south, Xiwuling in the west and Yangchangling in the north”
There are also some places named after the name of a certain family or clan. For instance, Hongcun Village, a world cultural heritage site here, was originally called
Hancun Village because the majority of the residents were from Han’s clan. After Wang’s family prospered in this village, they did not change the name into Wangcun,
instead, they chose a homophone in the local dialect to rename it Hongcun. This is really an exception, showing the inclusiveness of the people at that time.
The people here have not only retained the name of the county for thousands of years but also kept the values of the locals for thousands of years.
Some places are named after a consensus on cultural values. Lucun Village, a famous historical and cultural village in China, still maintains three ancient streets and 24 ancient lanes. The names of the lanes embody the Lu’s family culture of “sincerity, morality, charity, and righteousness”. The names of the streets and lanes, plus the connotation of historical stories and cultural values, have become part of Lucun culture.
The surname of Lu’s family was originally Jiang. In order to let the descendants remember the hardship during the war, the ancestors changed the name after Lu, a kind of reed root they used to stuff their hungry stomachs. Ever since then, 40-odd generations have lived here over 1,000 years, and Lu Chenzhong, Lu Lin and Lu Chu were brilliant representatives of the family in history.
Zhichengtang, Sichengtang, and Sijitang, buildings with wood carving decorations in Qijiali, are role models of one of the three national intangible cultural heritage items known as the three carvings in Huizhou. The Dragon Lantern Show and the Phoenix Dance are listed provincial intangible cultural heritage items.
Lucun Village is amazingly charmful in all seasons. It can even be said to be the most beautiful place in the countryside all over China. The smoke from chimneys, small bridges, brooks, winter snow, fireworks on New Year's Eve and echoes in the valleys have completed the list in my imagination of the perfect countryside.
章四
来自故乡的价值观,是跟随我们一生的东西,无论走到哪,深入到骨髓的字句,一经唤醒,就立刻回到了故乡。
“十户之村,不废诵读”。关麓八大家,为汪氏后裔八个兄弟住宅。走进村中,就如同进入一个中国古代私塾文化博物馆,以清代书画家汪曙故居“武亭山居”为首,自北向西一次为“涵远楼” “吾爱吾庐”“春满庭”“双桂书室”……皆与书学相关。
秀里乡恋
南屏“抱一书斋”,则专门免费供家族中贫困子弟读书。房主李宗眉,当年家境贫困,只读两年私塾就外出谋生,事业有成后回乡建了三所私塾。《老子》“圣人抱一为天下式”,故取“抱一书斋”名。
梦里徽州,处处是黟县千年来的徽文化,也是中国传统文化的精髓与神韵。
塔川秋韵
The homeland values follow us everywhere all our life. Wherever we are, we are home when the deep-rooted memories are awakened.
"You can hear readings even from a village with only ten households", as the saying goes. In the residences of the eight brothers of Wang’s family, you may find that you are in an ancient home school museum. With the former residence of Wang Shu, a painter and calligrapher in the Qing Dynasty, as the most prominent one, all the buildings have a name in relation to books and study.
The Baoyi (to concentrate) Study in Nanping was a place designated for the schooling of poor children of the clan, free of charge. Li Zongmei, the owner of the house, was out of the village to make a living after only two years of education due to his poor family conditions. After he made a fortune in his successful career, he built three private schools in his homestead. The name of the study is from a sentence in Lao Tzu, which reads “sages concentrate on one thing for the world”.
In my dream, Huizhou is a place full of the cultural elements from Yixian accumulated for thousands of years. They are also the quintessence and charm of Chinese traditional culture.
章五
这里的方言遗传千年,古老的食物一样也有今天。
如渔亭糕。宋《太平寰宇记》记载:每岁西江鱼船至祁门县,舍舟登陆止此东水,次淹留待船,故曰渔亭焉。
图案精美的渔亭糕
古为湖广、江浙货运中转站,新安江水运最西码头。远走他乡的徽州人行囊里,总会有几块渔亭糕。今日的渔亭,每到岁末,一块块形状各异的渔亭糕,让徽州人家的年味油然而生。
黑茶
黟县多“黑”,这里盛产“五黑”。来黟县,不可不知黑茶、黑果(香榧)、黑粮、黑鸡和黑猪,其中,黑茶是指传统黑茶、石墨茶等系列茶,黑果在扩大香榧种植规模的基础上,发展以桑葚等为重点的果类种植;黑粮以黑米、“山泉米”为特色,推动黑玉米、黑花生、黑豆等农产品与旅游、健康养生结合;黑鸡、黑猪在严守生态红线前提下,合理拓展饲养空间和规模。
制作渔亭糕
“黟邑良畴,滋养千秋风物,桃源五黑,蒸尝百姓人家”。
味蕾忠于记忆,行至千里,难忘故乡味。
黑猪
The dialect here has been passed down for thousands of years, and the ancient food is still available today.
The local food Yuting Cake first appeared in the Records of the Peaceful World compiled in the Song Dynasty. According to the records, the cake was a delicacy of Yuting Town, a port linking the waterway and roads in Yixian.
As the town was a commodity transfer hub for goods from Hunan,Hubei, Jiangsu and Zhejiang and the farest west waterway terminal of the Xin’an River, people would bring some cakes from it for their journey. Nowadays, particularly near the Lunar New Year Eve, the Yuting cake in different shapes add a distinctive flavor to the local Spring Festival atmosphere.
Yixian County is rich in black-colored specialties, namely, black-colored tea, black fruit (torreya grandis nuts), black grains, black chicken, and black pigs. The black-colored tea refers to traditional black-colored tea and the tea produced in Mt. Shimo, black fruits are torreya grandis nuts and mulberry, and black grains include the real black rice, Shanquan brand rice, black corns, black peanuts, and black beans. It is believed the development of black grains is good for agro-tourism and regimen. The breeding scale of black chicken and black pigs has been rationally expanded under the precondition of strictly abiding by the ecological red line.
“The fertile land of Yixian gives birth to crops for thousands of years, while the black specialties nourish local people.”
Taste buds are always loyal to memory, and the taste of homeland is unforgettable even you travel thousands of miles away.